• Bare and painted metal - hitches/winches - rollers/bunks - wiring protection (non-conducting).
• PRO-TECT lubricates and prevents corrosion at the same time. The non-stick finish repels both dirt and water.

To protect 2 and 4 cycle engines while out of service a good fogging oil will do the following .....

• Remove and then prevent water/moisture contact with metal surfaces.
• Contain enough corrosion inhibitors to ensure protection over lengthy storage periods.
• Stall out engines and emit smoke to ensure coverage of all parts.
• Leave enough residual for ease of re-starting.

Captain PHAB FOGGING OIL does all this and more.

Superior clinging ability to metal surfaces leads to ....

• Significant reduction in consumption.
• Faster stalling and less smoke.
• Less tendency to "dry" out and less torque/easier starting.
• Dirty drainage eliminated or less likely.
• Even spray (no "spitting").

Once in a while a product comes along that is so handy for so many applications that it forms a basic part of useful things to have around. Just such a product is Captain PHAB DRY TEFLON LUBRICANTä.

Just consider these characteristics .....

• A combination of Teflonä and clear, non-staining petroleum base for superior lubrication.
• Dries to the touch in minutes and remains clear and colorless. Over spray is not noticeable.
• Unlike fluids or greases - does not attract abrasive dust or dirt.
• Sheds water and provides a barrier to prevent staining from metal corrosion.
• Once dry, won't transfer to clothing.
• Extension spout included with can to reach tricky or recessed areas.

Just look at some of the ways this lubricant can be used.

MARINE: Sail tracks, Linkages, Winches, Trailer hitches, Zippers, Snap fasteners, Head plungers or flapper valves, Cables, Furling gear, Hatches, Windows, Turnbuckles, Sails (Friction & chafing reduction and prevention of clinging or sticking.)

HINT: Works well when applied at the water line to prevent staining. Also for fuel exhaust stains on transoms.

RV's: Awning gear, Windows, Locks, Doors, Hinges, Folding chairs, On corroded areas to prevent further staining, On grills, etc. to facilitate bug removal.

INDUSTRIAL FABRICS: Cutting tables, Framework fitting, Tent hardware.

DOMESTIC: Patio doors, Windows, Drawers, Folding chairs, Hinges, Garage doors, Bicycle chains, Nuts and bolts, (Stops seizing due to corrosion), exposed metal surfaces.

Some enterprising individuals have even used DRY TEFLON LUBRICANTä on furnace humidifiers and lawn mowers to prevent scale and grass from sticking.....even a balky cash register responded.

Foul odors emanating from holding tanks are of particular concern to boaters and RV users. Also of concern are blockages, ease of pumping along with tank and level sensor cleanliness. Various types of approaches and products are currently in use and choosing the best one for your circumstances can be difficult and confusing.

2) Products which bolster natural bacterial action and produce odorless gases in the digestion process. In some cases "apparent" failure to control holding tank odors can be attributed to other causes such as..

• Holding tank vent - (Splashed tank contents not reachable by the treatment)
• Toilet to tank connection (corrugated lines will trap solids - use smooth tubing made out of vinyl or the like - even so, older lines will eventually be permeated by foul smelling gases. Replacement seems to be the only practical remedy.)
• Raw water intake line (Stagnation of water)
• Traps or sumps
• Discharge or dump lines.

INHIBITORS

FORMALDEHYDE & ITS DERIVATIVES - PARAFORMALDEHYDE & FORMALIN: Often used as an embalming fluid and preservative, these products will kill bacteria present in waste some of which give off foul smelling gases as part of their digestion process. Pleasant smelling masking agents are sometimes added. However, beneficial bacteria that help in waste breakdown or the liquefying process are also killed. Odours stop for a number of days, but gradually return as the bacteria recolonize and multiply. (Some hardier bacteria always survive which are then bolstered by the addition of more waste to the tank.) There are disadvantages to this approach - (even though formaldehyde biodegrades readily)

• Formaldehyde is usually in solution with methanol and is considered poisonous and possibly carcinogenic. (Label has a poison warning & possibly a skull & cross bones symbol.)
• Formaldehyde also gives off pungent vapors that cause respiratory discomfort and must be kept away from children and pets.
• Solids remain intact and may be difficult to pump.
• Formaldehyde biodegrades in a few days so residual effectiveness is diminished.
• If pump-outs enter a septic tank or field, the natural septic action is disrupted or stopped.

BENZYL AMMONIUM CHLORIDES: (Quaternary Ammonium compounds - known as "QUATS" or "QACS" in the trade.) Although not as "energetic" as formaldehyde they too will kill off bacteria in waste - beneficial ones or otherwise. The same comments on formaldehyde apply except this family of products is not poisonous. They can come in liquid, tablet or powder form. There can be variations in the type(s) used, but the key words to look for on the back or front of the label are
BENZYL, AMMONIA & CHLORIDE.

ENHANCERS

NUTRIENTS: Can take the form of carbohydrates, nitrates and other substances that contain oxygen which is readily available to aerobic bacteria (oxygen consuming). No smelly gases -- just carbon dioxide and water. These nutrients might be accompanied by enzymes and/or beneficial bacteria and can be a liquid, tablet or powder. Better types of this product also incorporate an ingredient that gives quick relief from disagreeable odors.

With this type of matter added to holding tanks, the aerobic bacteria will multiply by the billions and simply out-compete other types of bacteria that produce smelly gases (anaerobic). Septic action is boosted to liquefy waste which results in easier pumping and a cleaner tank.

Treatments based on nutrients are totally compatible with septic systems and tanks in RV campgrounds/parks and marine pump out stations.

WASTE DIGESTERS: (Bacterial/Enzyme Mixtures)- Since it is impossible to kill off all bacteria, it makes sense to add beneficial natural ones in such quantity that the odour causing bacteria can't compete successfully for the waste product. The "good guys" will actually digest various types of waste to liquefy them. Their digestive process is such that carbon dioxide and water are produced (both are odorless). There are various types of substances that can be decomposed - human waste, cellulose (tissue), oils, greases, protein and starch.

These bacteria are helped along by the presence of selected added enzymes. These facilitate and accelerate the digestive process by breaking down organic materials. More of this matter is then readily available to the bacteria which then multiply and secrete additional enzymes. In short, the whole natural process is speeded along and augmented by the presence of a waste digester.

As long as the "good" bacteria sense there is digestible matter around, they will multiply to accelerate the breakdown process. If such matter is no longer present, the bacteria become dormant and reactivate when it reappears.

Some treatments contain only enzymes or bacteria, and take more time to produce comparable results to enzyme/bacteria mixtures.

Waste digesters have a number of advantages ........

• The beneficial bacteria keep on multiplying if there is digestible matter available for longer lasting and more certain odour relief.
• Most solid matter can be liquefied for easier pump outs. (Such is not the case with Formaldehyde, preservatives or "QUATS".
• Complete compatibility with septic tanks or fields.
• Keeps sensor probes clean for accurate level indicators
• Waste Digesters are all natural and can be rendered ineffective by the following
  • Very hot or boiling water
  • Disinfectants
  • Bleach or drain openers

Holding tanks must be dumped and flushed prior to adopting waste digesters because prior treatments based on formaldehyde, preservatives or the "QUATS" will actually kill the beneficial bacteria to prevent the digesting action.

Waste digesters can take various forms - Liquids or powders with or without dyes or scents; with instant deodorizers; and powders with "boosters" to promote rapid growth in bacteria counts.

Captain PHAB currently offers three products for holding tanks -- two waste digesters in liquid form and a natural, nutrient type powder that deodorizes instantly.

All three assist and boost biological action and are therefore acceptable and desirable at all RV parks, dump stations and marine pump out facilities.

HOLDING TANK TREATMENT: Code 360 - 1 L. (Green & Lime fragrance)

ADVANCED HOLDING TANK TREATMENT: Code 362 - 1 L. (No dyes - No fragrance - Quick deodorizing)

HOLDING TANK DEODORIZER (edible): Code 364 - 450 g. (Measuring scoop, no odor or dyes)

Mold and mildew are unsightly and can smell bad. They belong to the fungus family as do mushrooms and toad stools all of which are living plants that reproduce by means of spores -- not seeds like other plant matter. They require food to grow which can take many strange forms -- paper, leather, adhesives -- the list is almost endless. Also, most fungi require moisture to become active and go dormant if absent. Mold or mildew stains can be black, whitish, pink or other colors -- unattractive and we want to get rid of the stain(s).

REMOVAL: Chlorine laundry bleach with detergent is aggressive and can damage fabric, threads and cause discoloration. Non-chlorine bleaching agents with detergent don't have those disadvantages and are easier on the eyes and lungs. Captain Phab Mold/Mildew Remover fits the latter description. Such removal agents will strip off applied water repellents so reapplication will be necessary.

Removal of non-living matter is accomplished by detergents and/or surface active agents. Still other agents can be incorporated to enhance the action of the foregoing ingredients. Still another method of removal is a carefully selected blend of beneficial bacteria and enzymes which literally consume mold and mildew along with their waste matter. IF fabrics or porous materials have been treated with a water repellent, it will almost certainly be removed and have to be reapplied.

It makes sense to prevent mold and mildew stains to avoid laborious cleaning or costly product replacement.

• Mechanical de-humidifiers.
• Absorptive clays (kitty litter).
• Silica gel
• Calcium chloride flakes

Fabrics can have anti-fungal agents added -- at the factory or after purchase if damp conditions are anticipated. This approach depends on the killing of spores and living plants. Unfortunately as the anti-fungal agents wear off, reappearance of mold/mildew can/will take place.

A superior proven approach is to apply beneficial bacteria that will literally consume the "food" matter that would otherwise go to the mold and mildew spores. These particular bacteria give off odorless gases and don't stain. Also, they go dormant when the surrounds are dry and reactivate when damp -- and their numbers will grow as long as there is "food" around.

• Clean off and remove stains.
• Apply a good preventative.
• Then apply a water repellent to "seal in" the preventative for a long lasting effect.

Captain PHAB offers two products to deal with mold and mildew.

MOLD & MILDEW PREVENTATIVE: Code 422 - 710 ml. An enzyme/bacteria mixture that fits the action described earlier. It can prevent growth as well as stop growth already in progress.

BOAT & RV POLISHING: There are quite a few very good polishes/waxes available to boaters and RVers. Easy to apply and buff; good shine; UV resistance; ability to resist or shed organic growth; friction reduction; remove light oxidation; resistance to removal by washing; one-step procedure except for heavily oxidized surfaces.

MARINE SEALANTS:	Code 616 - white - 300 ml caulking tubes
	Code 617 - clear - 300 ml caulking tubes

• Fully protect against ultraviolet degradation.
• Condition the EPDM rubber to retain suppleness.
• Minimize "chalking" accumulation.
• Seals off the surface to minimize dirt penetration to reduce cleaning frequency.
• Subsequent cleaning is much faster and easier.

Page 12

Boat bottom crud is not only unsightly, it will actually cause some drag, lower speeds and increase consumption of fuel. By far and away, fiberglas boats are the most common type. Our comments will be directed to this type and may or may not be applicable to wood, metal or inflatables. Actually the term fiberglass refers to the core material of the hull which is sandwiched between two layers of polyester resin (gel coat). Although the finish feels smooth to the touch it can be porous to varying degrees. (Just ask boaters who have experienced osmosis and blistering.) This porosity makes the surface receptive to various contaminants.

Amongst the contaminants experienced by fresh and salt water boaters ..Algae; Decayed vegetation; Minerals (especially calcium); Barnacles and mussels; Rust (iron oxide); Oil/Fuels; Silt.

There are many variables that will determine the type and degree of crud accumulation.....

• Specific lake, river or ocean contamination
• Boat usage (static conditions produce dirtier boats.)
• Water temperature (some algae go "wild" in certain temperature ranges.)
• Impurities in a given body of water can vary during the season and year to year.
• Gel coat porosity (some gel coat finishes are more porous than others.)

It should be noted that crud accumulation on metal surfaces below the water line can contribute to galvanic attack (pitting corrosion). Stray currents aren't the only cause of this type of corrosion.

For a deep and thorough cleaning, it is necessary to use an acid preparation. High pressure water will remove much of the surface deposits, but doesn't get all of the unsightly discoloration.

The most common acids used are ...

• HYDROCHLORIC (Muriatic)
• Quite aggressive accompanied by fumes that irritate lungs, eyes, etc.
• OXALIC
• A weak organic acid especially effective against algae and iron oxide (rust).
• HYDROFLUORIC
• Extremely aggressive. High fumes. Goggles and respirator necessary.
• PHOSPHORIC ACID is sometimes used, but when entering the waterways it will be a nutrient for aquatic plant and weed growth. (It should be avoided, just like phosphates in detergent and for the same reasons.)

Other ingredients that are used ....

• Surfactant/wetting agent to ensure faster, more thorough reactions.
• Dyes/colors - for cosmetic purposes only.
• Detergent (acid stable). To pick up oils/fuels that acids alone don't do well.
• Fragrance - to impart a "fresh" or distinctive smell.
• Thickening agent - to be less wasteful, promote a longer dissolving action and to reduce fine droplets and fuming.

It should be noted that when sufficiently diluted, hydrochloric and sulphuric acids can be acceptable in the ecology. Chlorides and to a lesser extent, sulphates are naturally present in many water sources. Fluoride is actually added to some municipal waters to reduce tooth decay. Oxalic acid biodegrades readily when in contact with soil.

Many devices have been used to apply acid mixtures -- brushes, rollers and sprayers. With sprayers, metal parts can corrode quickly and need replacing. Also, certain plastic components can become brittle and break. Sprayers do exist that are made to handle acids properly. Ask us about them.

Captain PHAB ACIDS

ALGAE & RUST STAIN REMOVER: (mild) Code 380 - 450 g Excellent for algae and rust stain removal. Ideal for waters that are low in mineral content and high in algae and organics.

HULL & BOTTOM CLEANER: (strong) Code 376 - 1 L., Code 377 - 4 L. Code 378 - 20 L. A mixture of three acids, detergent, thickening agent and mint fragrance. Effective on all known hull deposits. Very low fuming.

XTRA FAST HULL CLEANER: (Extremely aggressive) Code 384 - 4 L. , Code 385 - 20 L. For commercial use only. Especially useful at haul out time for its speed of cleaning. Also handy for extra stubborn deposits at the waterline or elsewhere.

Note: If acids get onto anti-fouling paints, a color change will occur along with a slight reduction in effectiveness.

HINT: Use Captain Phab Pro-Tect for the water line, transoms and out drives. It will take 10-20 times as long for the same amount of crud to appear which can be removed more easily with a wet sponge and/or mild detergent.

No doubt about it ---- the major culprits that cause the smelly dark brown bilge scum are petroleum based. Specifically, gasoline, diesel fuel, lubricants and anti-freeze are the major constituents. Of course, a variety of other contaminants can reach the bilge as well --- silt, food, beverages; holding tank leaks; unclean water from boat washing, rain run-off and from the waterways. This list is far from complete. Besides being unsightly and a potential fire hazard, bilge deposits can be susceptible to bacterial action and their smelly digestive discharges.

What to do about the bilge crud -- there are three approaches .......

1) Remove the crud after it has occurred.

2) Absorb the contaminants before they form a crud.

3) Prevent crud accumulation altogether to keep our waterways cleaner and "greener".

Water-based surfactants, detergents and emulsifiers are used with cosmetic aids such as dyes, fragrances, thickeners, etc. A few boaters use acetone and other solvents, but this approach doesn't address the fire and toxicity hazards. For your own safety and the sake of others --- DON'T DO IT!! ---- there are better ways.

Invariably agitation is needed which is best accomplished by boat motion -- the more the better.

Since most bilge water is pumped overboard, bilge cleaners should definitely be biodegradable. But don't fall into the trap - when a biodegradable cleaner is mixed with a soil that isn't then the mixture ISN'T biodegradable as well.

One more thing -- the length of time for specific ingredients to biodegrade can be quite variable -- days, months or years. It's a rather nebulous term. The thoroughness of cleaning is also variable ---

• Steel and other metals clean up the best.
• The porosity of gel coat will determine how well it cleans.
• Wood is quite porous and residual smells can persist despite vigorous cleaning.
• Captain PHAB BILGE CLEANER contains powerful emulsifiers and detergents for quick and thorough removal of bilge crud.

Also leaves a mild and pleasant lemon-fresh scent.

Fuels, antifreeze and several lubricants are lighter than water and float on the surface. Enter the bilge sock surrounding the bilge pump to trap out these items before they can be pumped overboard. They can be messy to retrieve and dispose of properly. This is useful to prevent some fouling of our waterways. Some socks go even further than simple absorption/adsorption. They incorporate microorganisms that eat petroleum products, the medium and the sock itself at which point a replacement is needed.

"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure". Rather trite, but it sure makes sense when it comes to bilges. Why put up with crud accumulation that is unsightly and often times smelly? Why install and retrieve messy bilge socks? Why not use a mixture of friendly bacteria and enzymes that literally eat petroleum products and other contaminants?

When carefully selected, such a mixture can convert incoming contaminants into carbon dioxide and water. They literally disappear into thin air. One of the beauties of this approach is the ability of the bacteria to reproduce as long as they sense there is more "food" available. They also create their own enzymes which break down the food matter into "bite size" form.

There are some limitations to this approach. Various factors can limit or destroy this action .....

1. Presence of bleaching agents or bacteria "killers" (formaldehyde, benzyl ammonium chloride, etc.)
2. Boiling water (temperatures beyond 120 degrees F. play havoc).
3. Strongly alkaline or acidic conditions.

There are other factors which can slow down, but not stop this desirable action ....

- Water salinity - Very low bilge temperature.

In some circles, the shelf life of bacteria/enzyme mixtures has been questioned. This can be valid if the bacteria aren't in spore form. Bacteria for bilge treatment have to be selected carefully --- the right form, resistance to mutations and other "interesting" characteristics.

Also brought into question is the possible generation of hydrogen sulphide (which can corrode metal if present in sufficient quantity). The sources of the sulphur would be from gasoline, diesel fuel and lubricant additives. This is theoretically possible with certain enzyme/bacteria mixtures but we haven't seen any documented cases based on practical experience.

Although a good enzyme/bacteria mixture can keep a bilge crud and smell free, the bilge water may contain other contaminants such as dissolved metals, etc. in minor amounts. This mixture can also be used to clean up existing bilge crud so it can be used anytime -- not only at the start of a season. Captain PHAB ONE-SHOT BILGE TREATMENT is such a treatment that has been particularly successful. Ask us for some startling case histories.

When designing a cleaning product, a formulation has to take quite a few things into consideration.

NATURE OF THE SOIL: Foot traffic, industrial fallout, insect & bird droppings, tree sap, food, beverage, algae, rust, smoke , etc. ... the list is virtually endless. The chemical composition of the soil or dirt often suggests which ingredients will be most successful.

NATURE OF THE SURFACE TO BE CLEANED: (The substrate)

Physical: Rigid, flexible, porous, fabric.

Composition: Metallic, wood, plastics, synthetic or natural fibers, ceramic, painted, etc.

Ingredients selected must not attack the substrates in any way or have long term degenerative effects.

SAFETY CONCERNS: Flammability, corrosiveness, poisonous, exposure to children and pets; visualizing possible misuse. A balance has to be struck between effectiveness and safe use.

ECOLOGICAL CONCERNS: Effect of runoff on sewage treatment plants; septic systems; rivers, lakes, oceans; adjacent areas where cleaning takes place.

Let's see what we get after walking the formulators tight rope for boat and RV care products.

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NON-SKID DECK WASH: Code 230 - 710 ml & Code 231 - 4 L.

(Neutral, water-based, phosphate free and biodegradable.)

WATERLESS HAND CLEANER: Code 650 - 250 ml & Code 651 - 3.5 L

What sets this product apart from other hand cleaners? PLENTY!! Removes printer's' ink, urethanes & even cured epoxies from skin. (This is rare among cleaners.)

NATURAL INGREDIENTS (No solvents): Non-greasy! Non-Drying! Actually softens calloused skin. Imparts a natural feel - Does not sting open cuts.

PLASTIC GRIT: Digs out dirt without cutting the skin. Many cleaners contain pumice or other abrasives that do cut skin.

FRAGRANCE is mild & pleasant and dissipates readily.

If you want particularly thorough and fast removal of very stubborn soils that other cleansers leave behind -- this is the product!!

Some users especially like the softening effect on calloused or damaged skin and the natural after-feel. Non-drying to skin and no greasy after-feel.

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Wouldn't it be great for boaters and RVers to have one product that ----

• Ensures good tasting and odor free drinking water?
• Does quick spot deodorizing of gray water in holding tanks?
• Has the ability to remove dozens of stains and odors?

You have all that in PURGE TANK CLEANSER -- a clean, white powder that leaves NO taste or odor of its own.

FRESH WATER TANKS: Over the years bleach, baking soda, salt and other approaches have been used to overcome the unacceptable taste of water. Trouble is, none of these approaches is designed to REMOVE slime and organic matter which are the cause of poor taste. These tank/slime deposits build up during stationary and stagnant periods. PURGE totally REMOVES these deposits to prevent re-contamination and bad tastes.

That's not all, PURGE totally removes other tastes and smells from fresh water systems ... plastic hose taste -- Taste and smell of non-toxic antifreeze ----smell of "rotten eggs" from hot water heaters.
Not only will water taste better, but so will hot beverages and ice cubes.

HOLDING AND GRAY WATER TANKS: PURGE can be useful to quickly deodorize both types of tanks on a spot basis. It is not a tank treatment as such and the results should be regarded as temporary.

STAIN & ODOR CONTROL: When dissolved in warm water PURGE can handle a wide variety of applications requiring deodorizing or destaining -- Grout, Laundry, Mildew, Wood decks, Refrigerators, Trash cans, Drains, Carpets, Household appliances, fabrics (except silk & wool), fruit stains, most inks, and dozens more. PURGE should not be used with chlorine bleach and it is best to pretest an inconspicuous spot for color fastness before doing the whole job.

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These two products were developed to take care of extra difficult cleaning applications where other products fall short. They also tackle a wide variety of chores to reduce the number of specialty cleaners needed for boats or RV's. The fast and thorough action also make it ideal for home use. There's another plus -- they leave a pleasant orange/citrus fragrance behind that shouts "fresh". Both products rinse off thoroughly and quickly with water.

Look at some of the many applications -- Engines -- Bugs -- Most tree sap -- Tar -- Creosote -- Exhaust stains -- Adhesive residue -- Oil/grease -- Smoke -- Soap scum -- Bird/spider droppings -- Teak -- Transoms -- Fish/bait boxes -- Scuff marks -- Rubber marks -- Ink -- Crayons -- Trash cans -- Carpets -- Painted surfaces -- Vinyl

CITRUS (Aerosol): Very handy for quick, spot cleaning. Ideal as an engine degreaser.

CITRUS (Concentrate): Can be diluted with water for great economy.

Tough Soils: Use as is
Moderate Soils - 10:1
Light Soils - up to 30:1

Rule of Thumb: Use the lowest strength mixture that cleans to your satisfaction.

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Restoring teak to closely resemble its original appearance is a challenge. Consider what you're trying to remove ---- Previous coating* --- A variety of stains --- General dirt -- Residues left by oxidation and UV rays -- Mildew -- Inherent oils

Graying caused by oxidation actually forms part of the pulpy wood fiber and its removal by chemical means will "raise the grain" to a greater or lesser extent. Sooner or later sanding will be necessary to ensure a smooth, uniform surface. Regular application of teak dressing with UV inhibitors can keep up the appearance and forestall the need for sanding.

Teak and most other woods are slightly acidic and it takes an alkaline cleaner to thoroughly clean and remove the gray and degraded surface. This darkens the wood so acid is applied as the second step to restore wood's natural color.

Captain PHAB's two-step cleaner offers many advantages ....

• Step One (alkaline) is less aggressive than other products -- much lower tendency to "raise the grain".
• Steps one and two have been thickened. Less runoff and damage to surrounds or staining of nearby surfaces.
• No fumes -- appreciated in confined spaces.
• Less wasteful. Dispensing spouts place product where you want.
• 500 ml (17 oz.) bottles are agreeably sized and priced.